Bandipur, January 21
Door: rikdegoede
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Rick
21 Januari 2012 | Nepal, Bandīpur
"So why doesn't the police allow you to smoke this gadza?" I asked Nicolà.
"Now that is a just question. Why? I don't know. It is harmless you know. Maybe it began because the Americans don't want to have all the shit coming from India so they pressed the people here to make it illegal."
With that, he took another puff from his chilam, the small type of pipe that carries a connection with Lord Shiva. After that, we let the chilam go round and shared the gadza (marihuana). The launge in my guesthouse in Kathmandu thus became a place to chill, very "shanti" and all that. I often wondered why every westerner who stays for long in India becomes a bit disconnected with reality in a funny way. Well, maybe gadza is why. I have to say though that the stuff was really not very potent, just enough so to make you feel relaxed. We thanked Lord Shiva after every round. Nicolà also showed us his way to carry the stuff: in a small skullcap he took from a sufi monastery somewhere in Uzbekistan. The monks there have a particularly interesting believe (anything becomes interesting if you smoke gadza) that one's mortal remains should have a function after death. Among other things, they make tools from their bones. "Although", Nicolà admitted, "I'm not really sure if he likes it that I carry my gadza with him."
So why did I stay for 2 weeks in Kathmandu? Hmmm, let's say I just felt really relaxed in that place. And there is a lot to see and do in that city too. One can climb up to the "monkey temple" (Swayambunath) for sunset or sunrise, one can hang around on Durbar Square or chat with the fellow travellers in "Freak's Street" (original name: Jochhe - named after the freaks that came here in the 70s, to smoke gadza, yes), one can visit the 9 m statue of Lord Vishnu at Bodhanilkanth, sleeping on a bed of snakes in a holy pond, or one can just hang around in the launge of a small guesthouse. At Swayambunath, packs of dogs chase groups of monkeys and vice versa. Something similar happens at Pashputinath and Durbar Square, where packs of saddhus (holy men) chase tourists to ask them to take their picture. Kathmandu, a city where anything may happen. You may encounter Lord Shiva himself, or his statue at least, inside one of the small shrines along the roads. His symbols are everywhere, and His most important symbol is His Manhood. You can see these "lingams" everywhere, and yes, He is pleased to see you! A bit less confrontational is His bull, Nandi. Being a ferocious beast in everyday life, it is supposed to be submissive once confronted with its Rider. Statues of meek bulls are sitting in front of every Shiva temple, with their heads directed towards the inner sanctum. These statues are covered by red ocre, smeared over them by thousands of worshippers every day. So yes, the first thing you may actually see when you enter a Shiva temple is a big, round, red arse.
Actually, I did some usefull things in Kathmandu too. I had my bags repaired thoroughly and also brought all my clothes to a tailor to have secret pockets made everywhere - to hide money. And I arranged a visa for India, a major hassle. One thing seems clear for now: I can't go back the same way through Tibet, so for the next months I'm bound to stay on the Subcontinent.
I left Kathmandu a couple of days ago. I have seen much more to write about since, but the internet connection is slow here. Next time I'll write you more: about Nepal, its culture and nature, my encounter with a rhinoceros and a mad Hindu priest, an elephant ride through dense jungle, and the amazing red sunset over the snowy summits of Manaslu and Annapurna.
"Now that is a just question. Why? I don't know. It is harmless you know. Maybe it began because the Americans don't want to have all the shit coming from India so they pressed the people here to make it illegal."
With that, he took another puff from his chilam, the small type of pipe that carries a connection with Lord Shiva. After that, we let the chilam go round and shared the gadza (marihuana). The launge in my guesthouse in Kathmandu thus became a place to chill, very "shanti" and all that. I often wondered why every westerner who stays for long in India becomes a bit disconnected with reality in a funny way. Well, maybe gadza is why. I have to say though that the stuff was really not very potent, just enough so to make you feel relaxed. We thanked Lord Shiva after every round. Nicolà also showed us his way to carry the stuff: in a small skullcap he took from a sufi monastery somewhere in Uzbekistan. The monks there have a particularly interesting believe (anything becomes interesting if you smoke gadza) that one's mortal remains should have a function after death. Among other things, they make tools from their bones. "Although", Nicolà admitted, "I'm not really sure if he likes it that I carry my gadza with him."
So why did I stay for 2 weeks in Kathmandu? Hmmm, let's say I just felt really relaxed in that place. And there is a lot to see and do in that city too. One can climb up to the "monkey temple" (Swayambunath) for sunset or sunrise, one can hang around on Durbar Square or chat with the fellow travellers in "Freak's Street" (original name: Jochhe - named after the freaks that came here in the 70s, to smoke gadza, yes), one can visit the 9 m statue of Lord Vishnu at Bodhanilkanth, sleeping on a bed of snakes in a holy pond, or one can just hang around in the launge of a small guesthouse. At Swayambunath, packs of dogs chase groups of monkeys and vice versa. Something similar happens at Pashputinath and Durbar Square, where packs of saddhus (holy men) chase tourists to ask them to take their picture. Kathmandu, a city where anything may happen. You may encounter Lord Shiva himself, or his statue at least, inside one of the small shrines along the roads. His symbols are everywhere, and His most important symbol is His Manhood. You can see these "lingams" everywhere, and yes, He is pleased to see you! A bit less confrontational is His bull, Nandi. Being a ferocious beast in everyday life, it is supposed to be submissive once confronted with its Rider. Statues of meek bulls are sitting in front of every Shiva temple, with their heads directed towards the inner sanctum. These statues are covered by red ocre, smeared over them by thousands of worshippers every day. So yes, the first thing you may actually see when you enter a Shiva temple is a big, round, red arse.
Actually, I did some usefull things in Kathmandu too. I had my bags repaired thoroughly and also brought all my clothes to a tailor to have secret pockets made everywhere - to hide money. And I arranged a visa for India, a major hassle. One thing seems clear for now: I can't go back the same way through Tibet, so for the next months I'm bound to stay on the Subcontinent.
I left Kathmandu a couple of days ago. I have seen much more to write about since, but the internet connection is slow here. Next time I'll write you more: about Nepal, its culture and nature, my encounter with a rhinoceros and a mad Hindu priest, an elephant ride through dense jungle, and the amazing red sunset over the snowy summits of Manaslu and Annapurna.
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21 Januari 2012 - 15:56
Ineke:
Hoi Rik wat leuk om weer wat te lezen over jou in verweggistan en wat een mooie foto's
Heb je nog last van je maag of is dat al weer over.We hebben net met Jolien geskyped
en nu een reactie naar jou.Hier gaat alles goed ook met Eelco,Ilona en de kids groetjes
van Paul en mij, daaag doe voorzichtig -
21 Januari 2012 - 20:09
Minny En Oma:
eindelijk weer een bericht! hanny is hier ook- doet nu de afwas- terwijl ik lekker luxe mijn e-mail kan lezen! ga straks de foto's aan oma laten zien. Ze zijn weer mooi1 -
21 Januari 2012 - 20:49
Vera En Rinie:
gaaf hoor! mooie foto's en ik ben benieuwd of er nog foto's van olifanten en rhino's komen dan... :)
fijn weer wat van je te lezen! knuf van ons! -
22 Januari 2012 - 00:14
Hanny:
wat een mooie kleuren op straat. Hoe groot is Bandipur eigenlijk? Wat jammer dat je zo weinig kunt internetten! wat een avonturen heb je weer beleefd! groeten van iedereen hier
Mamma
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